Erie Canal Bike Riding Adventure

DEDICATION

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This ride was dedicated to the memory of Kathy’s and Lou’s son (my grandson) LCpl Philip Johnson, USMC, who lost his life in Iraq in 2006, at the age of 19, and all those who have made the ultimate sacrifice. If it wasn’t for them, this 72 year old probably wouldn’t have the freedom to do something like this.

You will see pictures of Kathy’s bike with the United States Marine Corps flag and the Stars and Stripes proudly displayed.

INSPIRATION

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In 1984 I came upon the poster of Garfield and Odie sitting in a tree. The quote from Garfield became my life’s motto and was the inspiration for this trip. I thought it would be fun to try riding the Erie Canal from Niagara Falls to Albany, NY. I had no idea whether or not I could do it, but I owed it to myself to try.

That’s why I did it. What about Kathy? I think she felt it was her obligation to the family to go with me to keep me out of trouble. ☺ If she had not been able to ride, I’m not sure what would have happened.

MOTOVATION

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When things got tough on the road, and they did, we had the back of Kathy’s shirt to remind us there are others who have it tougher. We had a few “read my shirt” moments.

General Information

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Notice this blog is set up so that you read it from here and scroll down until you come to the end. Most blogs go the other way. When you get to the end of a page click on OLDER POSTS to continue. And remember, every photo can be clicked on to enlarge for a better look.

Some generalities are necessary in order to lump together common themes.

FIRST, WORDS OF THANKS
I have to thank Robin McCahill at Intuit Bike Fit in Thomaston, CT for fitting my bike to me. The process is fascinating in that the adjustments that I expected, turned out to be opposite from what she actually did. What a difference!

Then there is REI for outfitting my bike and body. The Keene Commuter sandals combined with the Smartwool® socks were especially instrumental in making me more comfortable. From new tires and tubes, panniers, and blinking rear light for the bike to some new clothes for me, all contributed to a comfortable ride. Their store at Blue Back Square in West Hartford, CT offers great Customer Service.

WILDLIFE AND INSECTS
We saw several deer, lots of blue heron, a flock of wild turkeys, loads of chipmunks, at least one attack squirrel and dragon flies of all colors—the color red was prominent in one area (we associate dragon flies with Phil). We saw a lot of one particular bird that I thought was a quail, but, thinking better of it, decided it must have been a mockingbird. I have decided that I really don’t know what it was. It had a white patch on the lower part of its back just above the tail, visible when it flew. And, of course, ducks and geese.

ON ROAD CONDITIONS
Because the pathway right along the entire length of the canal is not completely accessible, we did a lot of on-road riding. It was easier because pavement offered little drag on our tires, but we had to contend with lots of hills. The worst of it was the speed at which trucks travel on New York roads. Frightening. The wind created by one truck almost knocked me over.

The on-road route we rode most often was Rte 31, which was also Bike Route 5. It had a good wide shoulder, lots of rolling hills, and spectacular scenery.

One comment on using the WALK SIGNAL on street corners: when crossing major intersections…the walk signal does not stop all traffic. When the walk signal comes on so does the green light for traffic going in the same direction. Some of the walk signal buttons did not work. Those crossings were a little exciting! Watch for cars turning right. ☺

MEDIC!
As we rode along, one of us would call out: shoulders down. The other would answer: thank you. We had a habit of bringing our shoulders up to our ears and that put an unnatural strain on our back muscles. I rode many miles feeling like I had a hot knife in my left shoulder. Kathy had to wear a knee brace on her right knee. At one point she jammed her wrist when riding over a small pothole she didn’t see in time. Then, of course, there was my dizziness.

TRACKING MILEAGE
It had been my intent to accurately track the mileage between towns. That became impossible. From Lockport to Palmyra it was pretty easy because the ride was all on the old canal pathway. After Newark, things became very complicated with mistakes made following the maps. My energy was focused on getting from A to B. Once we got on-road, it was difficult to accurately calculate the mileage because I was never sure where the center of any given town was and we missed one town all together.

B&Bs AND BREAKFAST
I had no idea we would eat so well for breakfast! Fresh fruit, yogurt, cereal, pancakes, eggs, sausage, bacon, tea, coffee and cream or half-and-half (I can’t stand 1% or skim milk. UGH).

WRITING STYLE
I have a long-standing habit of writing in present tense, skipping to past tense and sliding into present tense again. And I can do that all in one sentence if it’s long enough. ☺ In order to write the journal and give it my personal flavor, I just let it roll. I hope it doesn’t bother the reader too much.

SET UP OF EACH DAY’S JOURNAL ENTRY
Speaking of my writing style, I tried to be consistent, but here again, inconsistency if one of the things I’m consistent about. I did my best and hope the reader will overlook any inconsistencies that develop.

I kept the “Expectations” section (in red). The expectations were written long before the trip was taken to help me visualize how each day would progress.

AND, last but not least I have two other on-line journals you might want to check out:

Look What I'm Up To Now! and A Very Personal Journey

Here we go. Come. Ride with me.

Travel Day - September 5, 2008

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Leave Enfield for Niagara Falls, NY in two cars
Drop one car off in Latham, NY.
Proceed to Howard Johnson’s
454 Main St., Niagara Falls
Phone #: 800-282-5261

Expectations: If early enough do some sight seeing. Maybe see the Falls lit at night and watch fireworks. HoJo’s front desk suggests walking across to view the Falls would be faster than going by bike. She said we would have to wait in line with the cars. We have ground level rooms so we can bring bikes in.

I left home at 7:25 a.m. Estimate 20 to 25 minutes to Kathy’s. The weather is extremely warm and humid. Hurricane Hanna is bearing down on Florida and the Carolinas.

Arrive Kathy’s at 7:54 a.m. Her bike is ready to be loaded!

8:30 a.m.—I’m pacing the driveway waiting to get under way. We haven’t even done the Erie Canal yet and already we’re having an animated discussion about the East Coast Greenway, which we may or may not ever do! This is going to be a great trip! Kathy says it’s going to be a long one. The question is, for which one of us? ☺☺

Finally, Kathy notes we are leaving “at 9 a.m. on the freaking nose!”

MUSICAL CARS
It will take two cars to do this. We begin in Kathy’s Ridgeline and Lou’s Acura. Lou’s car is dropped at the Acura dealer in Latham, NY. After lunch at Red Robin in Latham, we are back on the road at 12:24 p.m. Lou has the pleasure of riding with us in the Ridgeline. Tomorrow, Lou will drive back to Latham to pick up his car and drop the Ridgeline. We will end our ride here and the Ridgeline is our ride home.

2:41 p.m. stopped for gas. E.T.A. (according to GPS navigation device) Niagara Falls is 5:15 p.m. We arrived at Howard Johnson Motel at 4:58. Didn’t even have time to settle in when Kathy and Lou are ready to go.

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Howard Johnson motel two blocks from Niagara falls.
My room. Notice we were allowed to bring our bikes into our rooms.

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Niagara Falls; below the falls; the Rainbow Bridge.

The three of us are overwhelmed by the magnificence of Niagara Falls. The size and volume of water is mind-boggling. We walked to the Falls and took lots of pictures. Had a stranger take our pictures as well.

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Looking straight down from the observation tower.

We were on the observation deck when Kathy suddenly disappeared and we couldn’t find her. While we were desperately searching for her, she was down below flirting with “Ambassador” Mark. Once she realized the observation platform was hanging out high above nothing, she beat a hasty retreat. The “Ambassadors” ride around in golf carts answering questions and helping direct tourists to where they want to go.

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They then dragged me into the Hard Rock Café and forced me to listen to loud hard rock music. Food and coffee was excellent. I had Cobb Salad; Kathy had steak and mushrooms; Lou had a veggie burger. After dinner I had to go into the Hard Rock Store. Bought a tee shirt…just because.

Firsts for me today: Red Robin; Hard Rock Café; eating avocado; Niagara Falls.

We were going to walk over to the Canadian side but it was raining when we came out of the HRC. By the time we got back to our rooms, it was pouring. The forecast is for the rain to stop by morning. We sure hope so. There are tourist things we didn’t do because of time and weather constraints. Niagara Falls is a starting point, not the focal point, of this trip.

The information desk at Ho Jo’s showed me the best route out of town tomorrow morning…safest and most direct. Also cautioned us against going through one particular neighborhood…not safe. I’m glad I asked. The route I was considering would have taken us right through the “not safe” area. This is just one hazard of riding in unfamiliar territory.

We said good night and went to our rooms. I hope I can sleep. It’s always a problem when I’m in a strange bed. Set the alarm for 6 a.m. and will join Kathy and Lou at 7 a.m. for breakfast.

Day One - Saturday, September 6

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Expectations: After breakfast more sightseeing, picture taking. Get someone to take our picture. After lunch (if not sooner) head toward Lockport. Our ride will be all on-road today.

I shut the alarm clock off at 6 a.m. I didn’t sleep well in a strange bed. A peek out the window showed it was raining. By 7:25 it looked like the rain had stopped…at most maybe misting. Doesn’t look like a very good riding day, but we have no choice. We do have ponchos if we need them. I watched Lou leave. There goes our transportation…except for our bikes.

I grabbed a banana in the breakfast room. Already had a lemon Danish. Kathy had cereal with a banana. The breakfast room opened at 6:30 and had a variety of hot and cold cereals, coffee, tea, juices, Danish pastry, muffins, etc. There were tables where guests could sit and eat. We chose to eat in our rooms.

Local TV news had a story of a shooting overnight smack in the middle of the neighborhood we would have ridden through had the tourist information lady not redirected us.

Left Howard Johnson’s at 8:02. After Kathy put air in her front tire we headed for Horseshoe Falls and Luna Island. We chose not to go into Canada even though we probably would have had a better view. I think we are feeling a little anxious and want to get this show on the road. The weather is very dreary, cloudy, misty, and cool.

At Niagara Falls State Park I took many pictures at the statue of Chief Clinton Rickard (RO-WA-DA-GAH-RA-DEH – Loud Voice, Tuscarora, Beaver Clan) who founded the Indian Defense League of America. Also photographed plaques dedicated to Charter Members of the League, Sophie Martin (GO-WA-TAH-RA-NEH – Speaking to the People, Mohawk, Wolf Clan); David Hill (DE-HO-WEH-YA-HE-REH – Spreading Wings, Mohawk – Wolf Clan).

At Luna Island we walked down a lot of steps in the area of Bridal Veil Falls. We were able to get so close to the Niagara River as it flowed over the Niagara Escarpment that we could see the shallow bottom very clearly. Just before the water flows over the edge it gives no indication of how rapid the current is. Just thinking about stepping into the water is scary! Yet we saw signs that cautioned, “No climbing over railing.” Duh!

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Here we are as we start our magnificent, epic ride from Niagara Falls to Albany.

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Chief Rickard.

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Luna Park at the top and Terrapin Point at the bottom.

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Kathy and me right on the edge. The water is right on the other side of that fence.

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The sharp drop from Luna Park.

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I still can't believe you need a sign!

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The flow over the falls and the river below the falls.

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Niagara River rapids just north (or is it west) of the Falls.

Left Horseshoe Falls at 9:05 on our way to Lockport. Our route out of Niagara Falls is Main St. (Rte 104) to Pine Ave., to Hyde Park Blvd, which becomes a steep hill over railroad tracks. Half way up the hill Kathy sees a plastic fork in the road. She calls back to me, “There’s a fork in the road. Which way do we go?”

We are riding into the wind, but making 9 to 11 mph. We will be riding on-road all day because the canal pathway doesn’t begin until Lockport.

10 a.m. – turned onto Rte 31 and heading east, straight into Lockport from here. We stopped at the Tuscarora Indian Nation Reservation (Smokin Joes) in Sanborn for a mid-morning snack and started asking people, “How far to Lockport?” It’s a left-over joke from our very short trip on the canal in 2004. As expected we got answers that ranged from “have no idea” to “11 to 16 miles”. We had figured at least 16.

Smokin Joes® Trading Post is a one stop shopping center—a large grocery store, Cafe, Men's and Women's clothing boutiques, Fine jewelry department, the Native American Museum of Art, and you can even get your car washed! Come get your Smokin' Deals…the price of cigarettes is outrageously low (no, I don’t smoke).

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As we enter Lockport it’s on a designated BIKE LANE. Makes me happy!

26.52 miles as we get to our B&B, Hamilton House. Even though we were very early, Suzanne was gracious and allowed us to dump our gear in our room. We decided it was too far to walk to the Canal Cruise so we rode our bikes. After lunch at Friendlys, we headed for the tourist attraction.

We did this:
Lockport Locks & Erie Canal Cruises
210 Market Street, Lockport, NY 14094
Phone: (716) 433-6155, Toll Free: (800) 378-0352
Hours: Public cruises at 10am, 12:30pm, and 3pm daily
Lockport Locks & Erie Canal Cruises provides relaxing two-hour cruises on the historic Erie Canal, which includes “locking through” the only double set of locks on the Erie Canal. .....visit our Gift Shop and Erie Canal Heritage Museum. Enjoy a relaxing trip on the canal and “live life in the past lane.” * Experience a unique 2-hour cruise which includes "locking through" and being raised the 49 ft. elevation of the Niagara Escarpment (the same one that creates Niagara Falls) in the only double set of locks on the Erie Canal. You will pass under bridges that raise straight up, see water cascade over Lockport's famous "Flight of Five" 1840's locks, and travel through the solid walls of the "rock cut" as your Coast Guard licensed captain describes the architecture, sights, and folklore along the way. $13 for AAA members.

We did not do this:
Lockport Cave & Underground Boat Ride

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Welcome to Lockport. Just look at that wide shoulder for riding. As we came into the center of town there was an honest to goodness bike lane! YES.

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As we locked through we saw original dry docks, “upside down” bridges, what’s left of the original locks and the beautiful new locks. We also saw the remains of the building owned by Birdsill Holly who invented the fire hydrant. This building burned down. The ride itself is best told in the pictures. The grounds surrounding the Canal Cruise area had pretty gardens that invited one to sit and rest a spell. The building, which housed a restaurant and gift shop, was all set up to host a wedding reception. We had hoped to crash the party on our return, but were told not go through the building. Darn! We were hoping for open bar!

Speaking of the gift shop, I bought a book that I highly recommend, “The Erie Canal: The Ditch that Opened a Nation” by Dan Murphy. Address all inquiries to Brian Meyer, Publisher, Western New York Wares Inc., P. O. Box 733, Ellicott Station, Buffalo, NY 14205. Email: buffalobooks@att.net. I’m not sure if this book is available from any other source. It’s listed on Amazon, but not available. Filled with lots of factoids that bring the Canal alive.

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Lock empty at the top. Lock full on the bottom.

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I was taken by this door. In the middle of a stark, white wall. I found it quite beautiful.

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Dry dock on the old canal.

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New locks on the left and the original locks on the right. The original locks are only one- half the width they were when in use.

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After the ride, which was about 2 hours long, we stopped at Montadelo’s Restaurant (not far from the B&B). Servings way to much for someone who can’t take a doggie bag home. Terrible waste of delicious food.

Following are photos of our ride on a canal boat. It was exciting locking through and learning about the building of the canal.

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Top: coming into the lock.
Bottom: Locking through.

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This is still part of the Niagara escarpment.

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Houses built right on the canal by merchants of the day.

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Lock info sign.

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Solid limestone.

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This is what's left of the workshop of Birdsell Holly who is credited with the invention of the fire hydrant. His workshop burned down.

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Making good use of the stones that were dug up as the canal was built.

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Interesting architecture. Just look at the top of this building!

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Our room at Hambleton House and the outside of the B&B.

Back to The Hambleton House to shower and get ready for bed. At our B&B we were treated to a comfortable room and soft, snowy white bathrobes. The private bath had old-fashioned, small white tiles on the floor and a free-standing tub. I came close to taking a header getting out of the tub. I’m not as limber as I used to be and almost didn’t get that first leg up and over. ☺

Estimated mileage: 21 miles
Actual miles: 27.5
Time pedaling: 2 hrs 57 min 45 sec
Average speed: 9.28 mph
Highest speed: 19.13 mph

HAMBLETON HOUSE
130 Pine St., Lockport, NY 14094
Our hostess: Suzanne
716-439-9507

Day Two – Sunday, September 7

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Expectation:After breakfast we depart the Hambleton House in Lockport and head for Brockport.
Pass through towns of Orangeport, Gasport, Reynales Basin, Middleport, Shelby Basin, Medina (see “apple”) where we will have lunch. Two miles outside of Medina is the place where a road goes under the canal. Stop and take pictures. Knowlesville, Eagle Harbor, Abion, Brockville, Hulberton, Holley and finally, Brockport.

Our ride today will be on the canal pathway all the way to Brockport.

We (or at least I am) are up before 7 a.m. and had breakfast at 8. Thank goodness I have all my stuff in plastic bags. Makes repacking my panniers so much easier.

There was another couple staying here. They had biked all the way from Rochester the day before. The young woman had “taco-ed” her back rim. That’s a term I had never heard before but if you know what a taco is then you can imagine her rim. They said it wasn’t that bad and were planning to ride back to Rochester today. Good luck. Breakfast was hot and cold cereals, fresh fruits, breads, coffee, tea, orange juice.

At mile 0.90 we are at the beginning of the canal pathway. Kathy was right about where to access the towpath. She usually is right. By mile 3.05 we are shedding the outer layer of clothing. It’s sunny, cool, gorgous.

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Photos from top to bottom: bridge to Gasport; how Gasport got its name; you can get there from here!; looking across the bridge into Middleport where the antique car show was going on; and the bridge into Middleport.

We hit Gasport at mile 7.04.

Four miles or so down the road we chanced upon a classic car show in the town of Middleport—Mustangs, Corvettes, very old Fords, and on and on. As we walked along Main Street admiring the cars, we were asked if we would mind putting our bikes in the firehouse. It was feared one of the bikes could fall over (we were putting down the kick stands and walking away) and damage one of the cars. Good thought, and while we were in the firehouse it was a good chance to use the facilities.

Suddenly, there was the roar as a huge dump truck came barreling over the bridge straight at the flimsy barricade guarding the classic cars. I won’t repeat some of the things that were shouted as the truck, going full throttle, laid on the horn and hung a sharp left and roared out of town. Must have been a local boy showing off. When the paralysis wore off ☺ someone stepped forward and moved the barricades farther away from the bridge, giving the next truck more room.

There is a Family Hair Care business in town called The Clip Joint. (I thought that was clever.)

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Photos top to bottom: in Medina...location, location, location; Medina bridge: the Apple of Medina; Knowlesville bridge; two beauties in yellow ponchos; sign indicating the northernmost point on the Erie Canal.

On to Medina, another 4 to 5 miles down the road where we had lunch at the Country Club Restaurant. We left at 12:54 in the rain. We did stop to take pictures of the Medina “apple”. This is apple country. We did not stop for pictures of the road under the canal. It was raining harder. When we hit Knowlesville we stopped under a bridge to put on our ponchos and implore Mother Nature to let up on the rain. Even hired an Angel to intercede for us. You can guess how far we got with that!

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Photos top to bottom: town of Albion; Albion bridge; flood control; Hulberton bridge.

In Albion, we met Bob Russell, lift bridge operator. I asked him about the flood control gates we had seen and he told us as follows: in the event there is a leak in the canal wall or the wall is in danger of collapse or being breached for some reason, the flood control gate upstream is lowered allowing the water to flow out, exposing the problem so it can be fixed. I suggested that it would result in everything upstream of the gate to get flooded. He seemed to think that wouldn’t happen because the water flows slowly; the canal bank has enough height to accommodate a little more water; and the repairs would be made quickly. I’m not sure I buy it. The gates must let some water continue to flow through somehow. Perhaps a small space at the bottom?

Just past Albion we saw five deer in a small meadow next to the canal. They just stood there until one of them snorted and they all took off.

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The bridges in Holley and Brockport

Mileage at Holley is 41.00 even. Brockport is 46.11 and the end of today’s ride.

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Top photo shows the dining room of the Victorian Bed and Breakfast. Lower photo is a view of the parlor.

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This is my bed and, as you can see, I'm packed and ready to go. You can see our day's itinerary propped up on the pillow.

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Kathy's bed. Oh, my. It looks like Kathy is still in it.

It was uphill to the Victorian B&B. We found our key in an envelope on the front door with instructions on how to get in, register, and find our room. We stashed our gear and went back down the hill to eat at the Stoneyard, where we ordered what we thought were small dinner salads. Next time we’ll ask, “How big?” These were gigundous and there was no way we could eat all that. Even if we had shared one, we would not have put a dent in it. Then it was up the hill again to shower and bed down.

I neglected to photograph the outside of the Victorian B & B, but you can to to the website if you want to see it.

Estimated mileage: 42.5
Actual mileage: 48.35
Time pedaling: 5 hrs 36 min 45 sec
Average speed: 8.61 mph
Highest speed: 31.94 ☺

VICTORIAN B&B
320 Main St., Brockport, NY 14420
Our hostess: Claudia
585-637-7519

Day Three – Monday, September 8

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Expectations: I’m sure we’ll have our coffee and tea at the Victorian, but breakfast will no doubt be at a nearby restaurant.

After breakfast we will depart Brockport and travel through the towns of Adams Basin, Spencerport, South Greece (where Henpeck Park is), then skirt the southern edge of Rochester – we will find lunch here somewhere OR we’ll sail on into Pittsford (8 more miles) where we know we can get a good meal at Schoen Place. Pittsford, Bushnell Basin, Fairport, Wayneport, Macedon (home of Terry Precision Cycling – 800-289-8379), and finally Palmyra. Get more information on the “change bridge”. Understand how it worked.

Woke up at 6:20 a.m. It is now 8 o’clock and I’m going to see if breakfast is ready. We need to hit the road.

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This is how you dry your socks when bike touring.

Breakfast was fresh fruit followed by pancakes and bacon. We are on our way at 8:50, traveling the sidewalk since the morning traffic is heavy and fast. We went to Rite Aid, on the other side of the bridge, for more tubes of pain cream – we should have bought stock in this stuff. I think this is where Kathy bought the heat pads and the knee brace. After checking the air in our tires and lubing our chains we’re ready to go.

The day is sunny and bright and forecast to stay that way with a high of 76°. Just starting off, it’s chilly except when we are in the sun. The mileage as we get back on the bike path is 1.48. The path itself is hard packed dirt with stone dust. In many ways it’s better than paved because there are no root heaves. However, the stone dust creates a lot more drag on the tires than pavement would, so we are working a little harder. One plus is that we are totally off-road and don’t have to worry about these crazy New York driver—especially truck drivers!

To all of Kathy’s American Legion friends who busted her so bad…her derriere does not hurt and this is day 3. Everything else hurts, but not her ………!

At the 10-mile mark we saw another deer off to the side and it just stared at us. Never moved.

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Top: Bridge at Adam's Basin
Bottom: Trimming trees along the banks of the canal.

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The town of Spencerport. This is a good place to eat (bottom photo). Kathy and I ate there on our 2004 trip.

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The name of this park just cracks me up!

We stopped in the town of Greece’s Henpeck Park. It’s almost noon, our mileage is 19.32 miles and we’re not far from Rochester. No way those kids rode from Lockport to Rochester yesterday.

When we left Henpeck Park we were on pavement. Here’s an opportunity to make up some time. We had hills and hills. This was not expected. Water doesn’t go up and down hill, but the path sure does.

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Taking a breather on a bridge over the Genesee River.

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The Genesee River and the Erie Canal meet in Rochester.

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For Rochester there was only one deep cut. For Kathy, this was the first of several.

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If this isn't the Whomping Willow from Harry Potter, I'll eat my helmet!

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As we logged 24.35 miles for the day, we also logged our 100th trip mile (above). There just happened to be apple trees by the side of the path and a lady came by with the intention of picking some. We asked her to take our picture and we, in turn, helped her knock down some apples. So good!

Before we left for this trip, I told someone that somewhere around Day Three I would be asking myself, “What the hell was I thinking?” I’m right on schedule. ☺

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At 1:45 we stopped in Pittsford for lunch at Schoen Place (above). We had stopped at this restaurant in 2004 when we did a short version of the canal ride. Major road destruction was in progress creating total disruption for all the little shops along the way. It was nice to be in air conditioning and have a quiet meal.

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Fairport Bridge

As we left town, we also left pavement behind but picked it up again not too far outside of Fairport. In Fairport we stopped in a park along side the canal to rest. As we sat on the big chair swing I had to take pain killers for my shoulder. It felt like a hot knife sticking into me. Leaving town we see two more deer.

I don’t remember this stretch of road, but Kathy says she does. It looks more like on-road. A stranger walking by says Kathy is right—it s part of the path. OK. (Damn! She’s right again!)

Here we are on that wide-open stretch paralleling Route 31. Palmyra here we come! Mileage is 46.95 as we turn off the path into the Village of Palmyra and head for Canaltown B&B. Mileage is 47.80 at the B&B.

2008-11-10T18:18:00.000-08:00

The front door of our B&B for the night, Canaltown.

All I wanted was to find our B&B for the night and get something to eat. I completely forgot to investigate the “change bridge”.

2008-11-10T18:11:00.000-08:00

Kathy's bed (top photo) and mine.

We are in the Marie Antoinette Brigham room. Oh, my. This is so beautiful, so feminine! Marie Antoinette lived in the house and there are pictures of her and her parents in our room. After we shower and change clothes its time to eat.

We had hoped Muddy Waters Pub would be open down on Division St. Sounds like a neat place for supper, however, it was closed. Our hosts recommended a restaurant and we went there…and then we went somewhere else. I ordered coffee. The waitress said they didn’t have any made and did not offer to make any. Needing my caffeine, I ordered a cola. I forget what Kathy wanted, and they didn’t have it. Plus their prices for pizza, (for such a little place of paper plates and paper cups) were pretty expensive. We walked out.

We headed toward the east end of town and stopped a family on the street to ask where we could eat. They recommended the Akropolis Restaurant. It was not that much farther (remember we are on foot). We walked in and were seated immediately. I was treated to a coffee and I think Kathy had her tea. We ordered. In no time our meals were on the table. We were told that they had been about to close when we came in but they would stay open for us. Our waitress told us the day cook happened to come in and was cooking for us. Our waitress came around asking if I wanted more coffee. She said she would put on a fresh pot if I did. I declined, but I was grateful for the offer. The day cook turned out to be the owner who had come in to close up. Which restaurant do think we recommend?

What is Palmyra famous for?
* Pliny Sexton house, which was part of the underground railroad (Google: Pliny Sexton house for a wealth of information)
* The Presbyterian church was also part of the underground railroad. Our host, Bob Leiston, told us Winston Churchill’s grandparents were married in that church (Clarissa "Clara" Hall was born circa 1820 in Palmyra, NY married Leonard Walter Jerome. One of their three daughters, Jennie, was Winston Churchill’s mother —
* Home of Joseph Smith, founder of the Mormon Church
* Hill Cumorah

Estimated mileage: 45 miles
Actual mileage: 47.80
Time pedaling: 4 hrs 56 min 28 sec
Average speed: 9.67 mph
Highest speed: 22.81 mph

Our bed and breakfast for the evening is CANALTOWN (no web site) just off the main drag. Our host and hostess are Robert and Barbara Leisten.
119 Canandaigua Rd
Palmyra, NY 14522
315-597-5553

Day Four – Tuesday, September 9

2008-11-10T18:03:00.000-08:00

Expectations: Canaltown B&B has a candlelight breakfast.

After leaving Canaltown we will continue east through the towns of Port Gibson, Newark (we stayed at the Quality Inn in 2004 – low quality!), Lyons, Lock Berlin, Clyde (for lunch), Montezuma (if we get lost anywhere it will be trying to get around the Wildlife refuge without going through it – no bikes allowed), Port Byron (should be stopping here overnight, but the only B&B no longer in business), Centerport, Weedsport where we will stay in a motel for a change.

This day messes up our mileage. We go 5 miles more today, but 5 miles less tomorrow. Our ride will begin on stone dust and transfer to Rte 31 on-road. In Port Byron we are back on stone dust to Centerport where we go on-road again to Weedsport.

We had a delightful candlelight breakfast at 8 a.m. as Barbara Leiston related a lot of history of the house and the town. She also presented Kathy and I with woven hot dish mats. She makes them herself and gives them to all their guests.

Left Canaltown at 9:35 – way off schedule. It had rained all night, and, because our bikes had been outside, they were soaking wet. We are wearing our ponchos as we head back to Aqueduct Park to pick up pathway. Mileage at beginning of path is 0.90. Finding the path at the Palmyra Marina is tricky. It probably would have been easier if we came down Division St. right off. We leave Palmyra on stone dust path, but in Newark it changes to on-road, State Route 31, Bike Route 5.

2008-11-10T18:02:00.000-08:00

At 4.32 miles we came upon what looked like a canal overflow into Ganargua Creek. We had to take the ponchos off. Because we were sweating it will now be chilly riding.

Who was the air-head who said the canal path was flat?

2008-11-10T17:59:00.000-08:00

Mile 7.3 – Port Gibson Rd. The kiosk says Newark. From this parking lot at Whitbeck Rd. we go across to pick up path. Cannot go under the bridge at this time. Where’s the town?

Mile 10.07 – we are at a crossroad. Kathy checks in one direction; I go in the opposite direction. We make a decision and continue. Kathy is yelling something at me. Oh, she almost got run over by a freaking squirrel.

Where’s Newark?

Mile 10.80. Here we are—coming up behind the Quality Inn in Newark at intersection of East Avenue and East Union St.

Mile 11.6 – back on the road and headed for a car wash. We need to get the grit off the derailleurs, dry the chains and re-lube.

Mile 17.17 - We stopped for lunch in Lyons at a McDonalds. Kathy went out to the parking lot to wait for me as I went to the lady’s room. I came out the door and she doubles over laughing and is pointing toward me. I turned around to see what was so funny only to see a streamer of toilet paper go flying across the parking lot. Apparently it was hanging out the back of my shorts. Thank goodness it was windy and the TP flew away. ☺☺

(Note: When Kathy adds her comments to this journal she may (or may not) choose to tell the story of how, on the same day I TP’d the McDonald parking lot, I also flashed a gas station!)

Mile 19.38 – We are approaching Butch’s Handyman Services and here comes a Rottwieler charging in our direction. There is no way we are going to proceed past this guy’s house/business. Kathy called the number on the sign and actually talked to Butch. He said there was an invisible fence and the dog would not go past it. Really. Sure scared the hell out of us. We walked our bikes past the place. In a few minutes Butch called back to make sure we had made it OK (and probably to make sure his Rottweiler hadn’t gone through the electronic fence!).

Traveling State Route 31 in this part of New York we saw some beautiful country. Vast corn fields, acres and acres of farm land. In some places the view seemed to go on forever. One truck driver gave us a thumbs up and a blast on the horn. Guess he was honoring the flags on the back of Kathy’s bike.

2008-11-10T17:56:00.000-08:00

Top: the sign announcing the town of Clyde.
Bottom: the center of Savannah

In Clyde, 23.41 miles, we made a slight error and got on Route 414. The bike route made some twists and turns here and we guessed wrong. We had gone about a mile before we discovered our error.

2008-11-10T17:54:00.000-08:00

At 27.49 miles a sign says Savannah is 5 miles. Really. Savannah is achieved at mile 29.8. That is not 5 miles! Maybe they meant from center to center. Who knows? Most of our mileage today has been rural/agricultural and on-road. We saw such beautiful scenery. In a car you would whiz right by and not even notice.

2008-11-10T17:52:00.000-08:00

Relative to all the corn fields, I heard on the TV news that the New York State and Canadian officials have been flying over the corn fields looking for illegal crops of marijuana. One picture they showed was a large rectangular area smack in the middle of a corn field, allegedly growing an illegal crop. Kathy and I decided the silage was going to be very potent this year…giving new meaning to contented cows. We thought it was funny.

Not too far beyond 32.58 miles we started a 1-2% grade climb which seemed to last forever (2 miles). Not too bad. It leveled off then went up some more. The reward was a 2-mile down hill at a lot more than a 2% grade! Without pedaling I hit 28.7 mph. ☺

There were long stretches where all we hear is crickets, the wind in the cornfields and the hum of our tires on the pavement.

2008-11-10T17:49:00.000-08:00

Entered Montazuma, 37.77.

Go over I-90 (at mile marker 311 on I-90 S), 39.17 miles

Entering Mentz, 39.99 miles.

2008-11-10T17:45:00.000-08:00

We stopped in Port Byron and Kathy went into the grocery store to buy a bottle of water when she spotted the sign showing where the beer cooler was. What she couldn't see (at first) is there is a room to the right where the beer cooler is really kept! This is her favorite photo.

Entering Port Byron, 42.23 miles. Just outside Port Byron we are scheduled to be back on canal pathway for a couple miles, then it’s back on Bike Route 5 in Centerport. However, because of surface problems in Port Byron (they put the stone dust down too thick!) we elected to stay on Rte 31 in order to make better time.

Entering Centerport, 44.72 miles.

2008-11-10T17:40:00.000-08:00

Check out this sign...no peddling! Oh, wrong kind of peddling. We are pedaling. And we promise we will not solicit...anything!

Best Western motel in Weedsport, 46.71miles.
2709 Erie Dr (Rte 31)
Weedsport, NY 13166
315-834-6623

Estimated mileage: 43.6
Actual mileage: 46.71
Time pedaling: 4 hrs 42 min 21 sec
Average speed: 9.92 mph
Highest speed: 28.7 mph
We have already covered 170.36 miles

Day Five – Wednesday, September 10

2008-11-10T17:34:00.000-08:00

Expectations: This is our short day. Only 28 miles (est). If we go to the next place that has lodging we would have to go another 28. I’m not doing close to 60 miles in one day! Perhaps a good chance to find something interesting to do in Syracuse to kill time and relax?

After breakfast at a nearby restaurant we will head out through the towns of Jordan, Peru, Memphis, Camillus, Fairmount (where we will have lunch), Solvay, Syracuse (right smack through the southern end of the city and things could get tricky here), East Syracuse/Dewitt, where we will bed down in a motel.

Leaving Weedsport, we will be on-road for about a mile before picking up the canal pathway and it’s stone dust surface. We will stay on that until just outside Syracuse where we will once again be on-road right through to DeWitt on the east side of the city.

We woke up with the alarm clock at 7 a.m. This was the best night’s sleep so far. The Best Western had wonderfully comfortable beds and, I guess, a little exhaustion helped. ☺ Kathy opened the door and the sun came streaming in. Oh, my!!! It’s 45° out there, but it’s sunny. You don’t know how happy that makes me.

It was time to do laundry. We walked to the laundromat before breakfast and put our stuff in to wash while we went back to the motel for breakfast. After eating we packed up. I reminded Kathy to make sure she collected her shaving equipment. That became a joke. Equipment? Shaving equipment? According to Kathy: Construction companies have equipment. Hayfields require equipment…not legs! That is, of course, dependent on when the legs were last shaved! ☺☺ We load up our bikes and head for the laundry to put our clothes into the dryer.

While we were waiting for our clothes to dry, we got to talking to the nicest older couple. They were very interested in what we were doing and very supportive. Kathy and I went over our maps of the day’s ride and were ready to set out for DeWitt. This should be our shortest day, estimated at 28 miles.

At the gas station next to the Laundromat, Kathy is changing into warmer clothes. So far we have found two gas station/convenience stores that are bike rider friendly. They have no public rest rooms, but let us use their Employee Only facilities. At this station they really want 75 cents for air. I don’t need any, but Kathy put air in her tires. No free air in NY as in CT.

We weren’t quite sure how to get back onto the canal pathway. What we were looking at on the map didn’t look like what we were actually looking at. We stopped at the Fast Track gas station and asked directions. The guy we asked told us to go right to the light, take a left and past the school we can pick up the stone dust path. That sure saves us time having to hunt for it! It’s not what the map looks like. The couple we met at the Laundromat turned up at the Fast Track and told us to go across the street and pick up the trail behind Arby’s. Huh? They were absolutely right. However this is a section of the natural, unfinished path, but it’s not bad.

We saw a big choo-choo train. Two engines (one going forward hitched to one going backward) and 68 cars—Kathy counted 69—and the disagreement is on! Add engines and we had 70/71. Kathy wanted a caboose. It was a freight train, Kathy. Freight trains don’t have cabooses!!!

At mile 4.54 we stopped at Lock 51 (part of the original canal) in the town of Jordan. It’s dry and out in the middle of nowhere. It still shows the two sections where boats could pass east and west at the same time helping to keep canal traffic moving. The section of the trail from Lock 51 is so pretty with it’s arch tunnel of trees. We may eat sooner than I had planned. The trail surface heading out of Jordean is so bumpy…because horses are allowed on this section.

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Top photo: the original east-bound Lock 51 in the old canal in the town of just outside of Jordan.
Bottom photo: the original west-bound Lock 51.

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A mural on the wall of a building along side the old canal in Jordan. Make sure you click on the bottom one to enlarge and read the rules. The entire mural was too big to do justice with one photo.

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Photos in the town of Jordan: Top photo shows what you do with the old canal bed when it is no longer in use and dried out. Bottom is a plaque dedicated to those from Jordan who served their country.

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Top photo: Nine Mile Creek flowing through Jordan.
Bottom photo: An information kiosk in Jordan.

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We are following a waterway now and it sticks to high heaven. Smells like sewer. Bad enough to gag a maggot!

2008-11-10T17:15:00.000-08:00

Mile 8.47 at McDonald Rd. I took a picture of a sign showing Albany 182 miles and Buffalo 170 miles in the other direction. When we were in Jordan our total mileage was a little over 170. Pretty close. So…182 more miles to Albany. Piece of cake.

We have gone past two trees with make-shift ladders going up to a seat/perch and I’m guessing it’s for bird watching. I doubt they hunt in this area along the canal.

Mileage 11.15 – we think we are in Memphis. 12:30 p.m. and we’re behind schedule again, but we’ve got an easy day. We are looking at the old canal which is not very wide, hardly any water in it. Maybe 50 feet across? This is why they had to build the barge canal to handle bigger boats.

An information board in Memphis tells about boat families and mentions a book by Richard Garrity, “Canal Boatmen.” I will see if the library has this.

A section of pathway in Memphis is a shared road. It is very bumpy with lots of water filled holes. It’s really bad. Not fun at all.

2008-11-10T17:12:00.000-08:00

13.85 – the town of Camillus. We got here sooner than expected. We’re hungry but there is no place to eat so we keep going. On a narrow part of the path we meet a huge truck hauling a huger piece of construction equipment (bulldozer). He was unable to make the turn into a side road and we continued our ride as he tried to figure out his dilemma.

This is also a shared road and the surface is hard packed dirt strewn with trap rock. Very bad riding. Not making good time here at all. The pot holes on this road seem to be filled with cement, which is better than muddy holes.

2008-11-10T17:03:00.000-08:00

Photos: The area around the Sims Store Museum and Kathy getting a few zzzzz at the aqueduct just down the road from the Museum. No, that is not an outhouse. It's a replica of a Lock House.

Mile 16.12 – we are at the Sims Store Museum. Unfortunately it is closed. The most we can do is take pictures and use the outhouse. As we leave this area on the banks of the old canal, the surface seems a little better, not quite as much stone dust. We stopped at the canal aqueduct in Erie Canal Park in Camillus. Work will start next week to restore it and should finish in 2009. I will come back to see it…by car

Condition of the road is getting better and better. Shortly after the aqueduct the trail became on-road heading to Fairmount. Somehow we totally missed the town of Fairmount. We should have taken the road to the right. It probably would have taken us down into town. So it looks like we are headed to Solvay.

20.67 – welcome to Solvey. We hit the Solvay Convenient (that is spelled correctly) and Deli at mile 20.94. We had no choice but to stop here even though it is pretty much a whistle stop. The Convenient store in the front was dirty and the Deli in the back wasn’t much better. It’s amazing what you will do when you are desperate! We had burgers (which were actually very good) with fries and a cold drink. All for $4.99.

We were able to get directions from a UPS driver about how to get through Syracuse into DeWitt. But first, I needed to cash a Traveler’s Check. The Convenient store person would not take it. Acted like I had leprosy! We found the Solvey Bank and even though I had proper identification and signed the check as I was instructed, they still made a phone call (to someone) and then required me to place my thumb print on the back of the check. I didn’t mind that they were being so careful, I just found it quite amusing.

22.50 – we are on the outer limits of Syracuse

2008-11-10T16:59:00.000-08:00

We spent some time in Clinton Square in Syracuse. Wonderful place with a fountain of water shooting into the air. We decided to deviate from the map and go into DeWitt directly on Erie Blvd. A little scary at times. One driver waited until they were right behind Kathy and laid on the horn. Kathy got really mad and I don’t blame her. There was plenty of room for us, and the traffic, so that couldn’t have been the problem. Did this person object to the U. S. Marine Corps. flag and the U. S. flag Kathy had attached to the back of her bike? If that was the case, that person is lucky they were in a car and able to speed off in anonymity.

2008-11-10T16:56:00.000-08:00

29.69 – a nice lady took our picture in front of a pet store in DeWitt to celebrate our 200th mile.

Mile 30.16 – We are in our room at the Econo Lodge. It’s 5:31 p.m. and so much for the shortest day of riding! It was a difficult day trying to keep to the mapped trail and bucking head winds.

We decided to go to supper at Friendlys, which was on the other side of Erie Blvd – a six lane highway. We managed to run across without getting hit. From there, Kathy spots Ruby Tuesday’s on the other side of the street. Now you realize, that means the side we just bolted from. So it’s run across 6 lanes of traffic – again. After so much pedaling, running is not easy.

The “new improved” Ruby Tuesday’s was a disappointment to Kathy. I wouldn’t know the old from the new. I don’t get out much.

Estimated mileage: 29.00
Actual mileage: 30.16 (that’s pretty close)
Time pedaling: 3 hrs 52 min 08 sec
Average speed: 7.79 mph
Fastest speed: 17.41 mph

DEWITT ECONO LODGE
3406 Erie Blvd E., DeWitt
315-446-3300

Day Six – Thursday, September 11

2008-11-10T12:17:00.000-08:00

Expectations: Breakfast at nearby restaurant and hit the road. The book says it’s 36 miles from Dewitt to Rome. That would be nice since I measured it as 49.5. How could I have been that far off? Actually they say The Old Erie Canal State Historic Park is a 36-mile linear park running from Dewitt to Rome. I don’t know if the pathway stays true to the park.

Towns we will go through: Fayetteville, Kirkville, the Chittenangos – the author of Wizard of Oz born here. Watch for the old dry docks at the boat museum. Canastota (lunch here), Lenox Bason, Durhamville, State Bridge, Higginsville, Stacy Basin – walk bike over Lock 21 and enjoy the view, and finally Rome.

The surface is stone dust to Durhamville then a short 3-mile on-road section to State Bridge. Then it’s back to stone dust to just outside Rome.

Coming into Rome looks like it will be better coming into town along Erie Blvd, which would bring us closer to Angels Nest anyway. Makes the dangerous Rte 69 crossing unnecessary.

This is one of our longest days (maybe) – close to 50 miles (maybe).

On the way out of town, this morning, I would like to stop off at Green Lakes State Park, between Fayetteville and Kirkville, to see the emerald green water and get pix.

I guess today is a day for disasters. The anniversary of the attack on the Twin Towers and I got up this morning —dizzy. It’s not good to be sick so far from home, not sure what the problem is. We’re leaning more toward exhaustion. This makes it necessary for us to rent a van that can transport us, our bikes and gear to Rome where we have reservations at a bed and breakfast. I’m very unhappy about this situation, but it is what it is. We’ll see the sights by car.

As I nurse a cup of coffee I am also calling car rental companies for a one-way to Rome. Enterprise, Rent a Wreck and Thirfty could not accommodate us. Finally, Hertz was willing to pick us up and get us into a van for drop off in Rome. If you are ever in the Syracuse area and you need a car, call Nada Burkart at (315) 426-0936. They are located at 1216 Burnet Ave., in Syracuse. They did everything they could to insure we would get to our destination comfortably—even printing out maps and directions to the drop off and from there to our B&B.

Out of necessity we went to Target across the street from the motel so I could buy a warmer sweatshirt. I had been borrowing one of Kathy’s and I was sure she could have used it. Got a bright orange hoodie for a great price.

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All photos taken at Green Lake. Among other photos, there is Kathy having a quiet moment of contemplation; Kathy and me beside the lake; and Kathy out on a log. She has good balance. You would not find me out there!

Our first sight seeing stop was Green Lakes State park around noon. When you look at the pictures you may think the color is reflection from the trees. Trust me, it is no reflection and the pictures do not do the color justice. “Both Green Lake and Round Lake (a National Natural Landmark) are deep-water meromictic lakes, meaning that there is no fall and spring mixing of surface and bottom waters.” from Trail and Travel Notes, “Cycling the Erie Canal” book of maps. I highly recommend you go to this web site http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_Lakes_State_Park to learn more. I had never heard of the Syracuse Channel or plunge pools. Good information explaining why the lakes are green. Kathy and I spent a lot of time here.

2008-11-10T12:04:00.000-08:00

We tried to find Round Lake without any luck. We wound up at the Sisters of St. Francis. Worth the mistake. The view was breathtaking.

Note: we have already found a total of four heads-up pennies on the ground. It seems God wants us to know he/she has everything under control. It’s a comfort!

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We then went to the Chittenango Landing Canal Boat Museum. It wasn’t supposed to be open, but the nice lady said that so many people kept stopping in she kept opening up. We saw the artifacts connected with the canal boats, the dry docks, replica of a stall that would house the mule as well as the Hoggie. The pronunciation ranges from Hogie (long o and hard g – just like the sandwich) to Hah-Gee. These were the boys who drove the teams along the tow path. I think they got their name from how they called to the mules to go right or left—Haw and Gee.

Our lodging for the night is at ANGELS NEST B&B, which is a converted convent. Restaurants nearby for supper. We dropped the van at Hertz at Griffiss Air Force Base and rode our bikes back to the B&B, stopping at Denny’s for supper.. The base was realigned for civilian and non-combat purposes in 1995. It is now home to the Griffiss Business and Technology Park, and it is still home to the Rome Research Site of the Air Force Research Lab. At its peak, the base was the largest employer in Oneida County, New York.

The following photos were taken on our way to Rome and then at Angels Nest.

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Top photo is the Chittenango Creek Aqueduct and, bottom photo, the Chittenango Landing Canal Boat Museum as seen from across the canal.

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A small sample of artifacts on display at the museum

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Every canal boat had a small stable where the resting mule and Hoggie would stay. While they were resting, there would be another mule and Hoggie working out on the tow path.

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Kathy playing checkers on an old fashioned checkerboard in a corner of the museum set up to look like it would have over 100 years ago. Your move.

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Replica of a canal boat.

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Top photo is looking down into the water of a canal boat that sank a long time ago. They just left it there to disintegrate and has become a tourist curiosity.
Bottom is one of three dry docks at the museum.

2008-11-10T11:34:00.000-08:00

Angels Nest

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The altar and stained glass windows of the Chapel at Angels Nest. Weddings are held here occasionally. Mary, however, does not officiate. ☺

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Photos:
Jardiniere - one of two in the world. When I asked Mary if she wasn't afraid someone would knock it over and break it she said, "Well, then there would be only one in the world."
Our room.
One of the dining room tables.

The Nest is beautiful as well as peaceful. Starting with the chapel and continuing throughout the home. Mary spent almost 10 years in Turkey and brought back many pieces of furniture and other artifacts to use and display. Mary herself is an extraordinary person and her home and gardens reflect that. Find something, anything, to do in Rome, NY and make your reservations with Mary at Angels Nest. You will love it.

Estimated mileage if we had ridden: 49.50
Actual mileage in the car: about 60
Angels Nest
404 S George St
Rome, NY 13440
Mary Davis our hostess
315-334-4618

Day Seven – Friday, September 12

2008-11-09T18:29:00.000-08:00

Expectations: It took God this many days to create Heaven and Earth before resting. What will we create today? and it will be two more days before we rest! Not sure about where we will have breakfast. Coffee and tea for sure at the Nest.

We leave Rome, continuing east to Oriskany, Utica (just skim the northern edge of town) should do lunch here, West Schuyler, Frankfort, Illion (skim northern edge of town), Herkimer/Mohawk, Jacksonburg, Little Falls.

In Little Falls we will stay at the home of a friend, RoseMarie. It will be good to be with friends. As we come through Herkimer, we should buy a bottle of wine for RoseMarie and Jack.

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How breakfast started...and just kept getting better!

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Mary Davis (owner of Angels Nest in Rome, NY) with Kathy (top) and me.

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The gardens at Angel's Nest

We had a wonderful breakfast at Angels Nest—starting with fresh fruit and yogurt, followed by scrambled eggs (what did Mary put in the eggs that was so delicious?), bacon and sausage patties. Juice, coffee and tea, of course. No need to have anything more anywhere else.

The first time I talked to Mary on the phone I wanted to hug her. When we arrived at Angels Nest I really wanted to hug her. Angels Nest and Mary create such a peaceful energy. When I walked in I took a deep breath and let all my cares melt away. I felt at home. I did collect a wonderful hug before I left. I told Mary we must have been sisters in a past life. She didn’t disagree.

We headed out and got as far as Denny’s, where Kathy decided she needed a change of clothes to the warmer.

We went along South James Street because it looked like a safer route to the trail. As it turned out it was probably longer. At mile 2.33 we reached South James St. and Rte. 26 to get to the bike path. The map was unclear about picking up the stone dust path and I had that sinking feeling we had made another mistake. I spotted a man out in his yard and I asked him for directions. He told us we were headed in the right direction and would soon come to Reber Road and to take that. Kathy was ahead of me, so she found Reber first. As I came flying down Reber Rd., Kathy was herding a flock of wild turkeys. Wish I could have taken a picture of that! From the end of Reber Rd. we access the bike path again and will be on the stone dust for a couple miles before we hit paved pathway.

2008-11-09T18:13:00.000-08:00

In Oriskany I took pictures of Bevy Boop’s and a pet wash. You can look at the pictures. No way I could make this stuff up.

Here in Oriskany we are deep into the Mohawk River Valley. The Erie Canal took advantage of the Mohawk River and incorporated it into the canal system the rest of the way to the Hudson River.

2008-11-09T18:08:00.000-08:00

We are now on the paved section and Utica is just ahead. Making good time. We came to the Utica harbor Lock and had to walk our bikes across. With full panniers, there wasn’t much room to get the bikes through.

We stopped for lunch in Utica at mile 19.80. It looked like rain so we covered everything we could and went in to eat. By the time we came out of the restaurant it was raining.

This is where we got messed up with trying to find Bleeker St. We never saw it. We continued following Genessee St. (because that’s what it looked like on the map) and after almost a mile I told Kathy we had to have made a mistake. We asked someone for directions and we were told to go back two traffic lights and take a right. That’s where we ate lunch!

We were waiting to cross Genessee for the return trip (correcting our mistake) and heard a big dump truck coming up the hill at a pretty good clip. I suddenly made the decision to bolt across the street. As I shoved off, my wet shoe slipped on the wet pedal. Wearing a bright yellow poncho, straddling my bike, I chicken flapped and frog hopped across the street having whacked my right ankle on the pedal and, because everything was so wet, couldn’t get my foot to stay on the pedal. Kathy, startled by my sudden move, followed. She also slipped on the pedal and gouged her left ankle. I think this was the injury that was actually bleeding. The truck driver never slowed down. I’ll bet he still doesn’t believe what he saw flapping and hopping across the road ahead of him. Kathy and I were laughing so hard when we got to the other side at the thought of what we must have looked like.

Wearing these yellow ponchos, if we rode side by side we would have looked like headlights! ☺

When we finally got on what we hoped was the right street, we stopped in an effort to figure out where Main St was. A young man in a car stopped and told us he had overheard us asking for directions and he knew we would not know that Utica had changed the name of Main St. to E. Clark St….right where we were. He told us to keep on going and we’d be OK. The kindness of strangers.

We rode, on-road, in the pouring, torrential rain. Then we were unable to find Dyke Rd. Road signage was worse than lacking. We finally found it (we were standing right on it but couldn’t see the sign). We never did find Old Route 5S. We went north and found Bike Route 5 and took this all the way to Herkimer on the north side of the canal, whereas the path we should have been on was on the south side (unless they moved that, too!).

We had to stop in Herkirmer to ask directions. We picked the right bike shop to do our asking. Those folks could not have been nicer. I tried calling RoseMarie’s daughter, Jennifer, from here to let her know we were getting close and give her time to get to the house and open it up for us. (RoseMarie and Jack were on their way back home from a business trip out of the country and would most likely not get back in time to see us.) Jennifer did not answer her phone. This was not exactly ideal circumstances for buying a bottle of wine. Sorry RoseMarie, we were just too miserable to even think about it.

The guys in the bike shop were a big help with directions and we headed out again. The rain was pouring off my helmet like a waterfall and everything was soaking wet. Thank goodness my panniers were covered. Every time I took my book of maps out or my contact information, they got soaked.

Now it’s getting dark. It is around 6 p.m. and visibility is very bad. We are on Rte 167 heading into Little Falls when, a mile and a half outside of town Kathy has a flat tire. I tell her to keep walking and I will race on ahead to get help. Race is the wrong word. My gears are wet and don’t want to change (I have a sprained thumb at this point trying to change gears); my chain, cassettes, derailleur and everything else connected to propulsion no longer has any lubricant. And I was exhausted.

I found someone on the bridge into Little Falls who directed me to the street I was looking for. When I got to the Fire House I stopped to get in out of the rain. First, call Jennifer. Thank goodness she answered. She said her brother was at the house waiting for us. I asked her to call him (I didn’t have his cell number) and send him out to rescue Kathy. Then I called Kathy to tell her help was on the way. She said, “I’m already on the bridge.” I couldn’t believe she had gotten that far. I told her to stay right there because Jimmy was on his way to get her…and besides, I had the directions to where we were going and she didn’t.

The guys at the firehouse were so kind and sympathetic. When I asked directions to the street where I was going they said, “Oh, just three blocks up.” And they weren’t kidding. Little Falls is build on the side of a mountain and the street I wanted was straight up. Pushing a loaded bike in my state of exhaustion was a test of endurance. I made it and got to RoseMarie’s house just before Kathy got there with Jimmy and Erica.

We had ridden 50.93 miles…the last 30 in a torrential downpour. I felt like the life had been sucked right out of me. I hope you understand why there are few pictures from this day’s ride.

The bikes were left in the side yard covered with a tarp. Our gear was so wet we had to leave everything on the front porch until we could dry it off. Because the contents of my panniers were all in plastic bags, my clothes were in good shape. My handlebar bag and rear pack were a total disaster. My book of maps was a mass of sticky pulp. My mileage logbook was no better. I told Kathy that I would have to get a new book of maps because this one was ruined!

We showered and changed into warm, dry clothes and Kathy put all her clothes into the dryer. Her stuff was soaked. Jimmy gave her plastic bags to use when she repacked. By the time we went to supper it was so late that, even though I was hungry, I was unable to eat very much. I don’t even remember the name of the restaurant. That’s what happens when I ride. It takes my body a while before it will accept food.

When we went to bed I was unable to sleep and sort of skimmed the surface all night.

Until RoseMarie decides she is running a Bed and Breakfast I will not post specific information as to her location.

2008-11-09T18:04:00.000-08:00

Estimated mileage: 45.0
Actual mileage: 50.93
Time pedaling: 5 hrs 44 min 28 sec
Average speed: 8.87 mph
Fastest speed: 25.05 mph

Day Eight – Saturday, September 13

2008-11-09T17:58:00.000-08:00

Expectations: We will depart Little Falls and head for
Indian Castle, East Creek, Mindenville, St. Johnsville, Fort Plain/Nelliston, Canajoharie for lunch, Palantine Bridge, Sprakers (Between Sprakers & Randall look for the “Noses”, escarpments facing each other. Watch for vultures, hawks and maybe a bald eagle on the up-drafts). Randall, Fultonville/Fonda, Auriesville, Fort Hunter – Schoharie Crossing Historic Site. Aquaduct. Amsterdam

This night will be our last. We’ll stay in a motel, eat in nearby restaurants, then complete our journey to Albany.

I got up feeling not so good. I think I need food. I need my coffee. I hope to be able to ride today, because if I can’t this presents a major, major problem! I realized there was no need for me to buy a new book of maps. What was I thinking? I’m never going to do this ride again. ☺

As well as I thought I had dried everything out last night, I gather my things and I’m still mopping up water in order to stow my gear. Everything just got so wet yesterday. (Note: the sound of my voice on the digital recorder has no energy as I transcribe this. I sound defeated).

I found some orange juice in the fridge and that helped hold me over until I could get some food. In the meantime Kathy still had a flat tire. I found her out in the side yard changing it herself. She had done it once before and wasn’t going to wait around for the local bike shop to open up. Luckily I had my CO2 cartridges with me specifically for inflating bike tires. Kathy got the job done in no time and was able to inflate the tire (the rear one, of course) enough to walk down to the gas station to finish the inflating.

I made several trips up and down the stairs getting our gear ready to roll. Every trip up made my quadriceps, glutes and calves burn so bad. I had to stop at the top until the burning stopped.

We had breakfast in a local restaurant (whose name I don’t recall). Food and coffee made me feel a lot better. We cleared Little Falls at 10:42, way behind schedule. Once again the maps failed us. What it looked like on the map was not what it looked like in reality. The pathway was obscured on a side street AND nowhere did the map tell us we had to pick up the Miracle Mile and a Half. You do not go over the bridge into Little Falls and you have to hunt down people to ask about the continuation point

I had electrolyte tablets with me and I put half a tablet in my water bottle and swigged it down. It didn’t make me feel better. If I had been low on electrolytes I would have felt better immediately.

The “old lady” carried “crack bags” and “mixes cocktails” on this trip. That’s a story for Kathy to tell (or not).

We left Little Falls in misty, cool weather. It didn’t take long, however, for the sun to burn off the overcast and warm the air and our spirits. We went past the Herkimer Home Historic Site, but we were so far behind schedule we chose not to stop.

2008-11-09T17:54:00.000-08:00

Crossing a quiet upstate New York country road.

At 2:11 we entered Canajoharie the home of Beech Nut baby food. We looked for some place to eat and spotted a seafood restaurant. Just the smell of fish turned my stomach. We went in but there was no A/C and there was no way I could stay. We asked a couple sitting outside where was a good place to eat and they told us to go down Church St. and we would have our pick.

I spotted The Village Restaurant at the end of the first block (59 Church St., Canajoharie, NY) and told Kathy I wanted to eat there. We ordered and when our food came I was unable to eat. I had become totally incapable of functioning. I couldn’t eat, couldn’t think. I reluctantly aborted the ride.

The two waitresses (turns out they are sisters) and their Mom in the kitchen became aware of what was happening and they sprang into action. While Kathy was trying to get hold of Jimmy to see if he could come to the rescue (again) our angels at the restaurant were working all their contacts. They assured me they would not let me get back on that bike…they would get help.

Well they sure did. The restaurant owner’s husband has a big Chevy pickup and he was willing to drive us to Latham where Kathy’s Ridgeline was waiting.

As we were getting ready to leave one of the girls came out with my salad in a take home box. She said I’d probably get hungry later on and she wanted me to have something to eat. These kids were so genuinely concerned. Another instance of the kindness of strangers.

On the way home we talked about how we wished we knew their names. When I got home and put the salad into the refrigerator, there it was on the top of the styrofoam box: Thanks! Stop again. From friends in Canajoharie—Cassie, Karlie, Dawn. Bless their hearts.

2008-11-09T17:52:00.000-08:00

So here’s a big hug and thank you to Cassie, Karlie, Dawn and Jack. Hope you liked the flowers.

THE KINDNESS OF STRANGERS
We were in a situation where we were very vulnerable to the adversities of life. What if we had a mechanical problem with the bikes? What if one of us got hurt or sick? What if we couldn’t find food? What if we got lost? All those things happened and thanks to the kindness of strangers we were able to get through it all. We owe these people a huge debt of gratitude:
The lady at HoJo’s in Niagara Falls who directed us away from a bad neighborhood,
the folks at the Akropolis Restaurant in Palmyra,
the young man who redirected us in Utica,
the Angels at The Village Restaurant in Canajoharie and
our Angel, Jack, who drove us to Latham.

We were supposed to stay at AMERICA’S BEST VALUE INN in Amsterdam. I was able to cancel our reservation.

Estimated mileage: 46 miles
Actual mileage: 20.98
Time pedaling: 2 hrs 23 min 41 sec
Average speed: 8.76
Fastest speed: 16.70