DEDICATION

This ride was dedicated to the memory of Kathy’s and Lou’s son (my grandson) LCpl Philip Johnson, USMC, who lost his life in Iraq in 2006, at the age of 19, and all those who have made the ultimate sacrifice. If it wasn’t for them, this 72 year old probably wouldn’t have the freedom to do something like this.

You will see pictures of Kathy’s bike with the United States Marine Corps flag and the Stars and Stripes proudly displayed.

INSPIRATION

In 1984 I came upon the poster of Garfield and Odie sitting in a tree. The quote from Garfield became my life’s motto and was the inspiration for this trip. I thought it would be fun to try riding the Erie Canal from Niagara Falls to Albany, NY. I had no idea whether or not I could do it, but I owed it to myself to try.

That’s why I did it. What about Kathy? I think she felt it was her obligation to the family to go with me to keep me out of trouble. ☺ If she had not been able to ride, I’m not sure what would have happened.

MOTOVATION

When things got tough on the road, and they did, we had the back of Kathy’s shirt to remind us there are others who have it tougher. We had a few “read my shirt” moments.

General Information

Notice this blog is set up so that you read it from here and scroll down until you come to the end. Most blogs go the other way. When you get to the end of a page click on OLDER POSTS to continue. And remember, every photo can be clicked on to enlarge for a better look.

Some generalities are necessary in order to lump together common themes.

FIRST, WORDS OF THANKS
I have to thank Robin McCahill at Intuit Bike Fit in Thomaston, CT for fitting my bike to me. The process is fascinating in that the adjustments that I expected, turned out to be opposite from what she actually did. What a difference!

Then there is REI for outfitting my bike and body. The Keene Commuter sandals combined with the Smartwool® socks were especially instrumental in making me more comfortable. From new tires and tubes, panniers, and blinking rear light for the bike to some new clothes for me, all contributed to a comfortable ride. Their store at Blue Back Square in West Hartford, CT offers great Customer Service.

WILDLIFE AND INSECTS
We saw several deer, lots of blue heron, a flock of wild turkeys, loads of chipmunks, at least one attack squirrel and dragon flies of all colors—the color red was prominent in one area (we associate dragon flies with Phil). We saw a lot of one particular bird that I thought was a quail, but, thinking better of it, decided it must have been a mockingbird. I have decided that I really don’t know what it was. It had a white patch on the lower part of its back just above the tail, visible when it flew. And, of course, ducks and geese.

ON ROAD CONDITIONS
Because the pathway right along the entire length of the canal is not completely accessible, we did a lot of on-road riding. It was easier because pavement offered little drag on our tires, but we had to contend with lots of hills. The worst of it was the speed at which trucks travel on New York roads. Frightening. The wind created by one truck almost knocked me over.

The on-road route we rode most often was Rte 31, which was also Bike Route 5. It had a good wide shoulder, lots of rolling hills, and spectacular scenery.

One comment on using the WALK SIGNAL on street corners: when crossing major intersections…the walk signal does not stop all traffic. When the walk signal comes on so does the green light for traffic going in the same direction. Some of the walk signal buttons did not work. Those crossings were a little exciting! Watch for cars turning right. ☺

MEDIC!
As we rode along, one of us would call out: shoulders down. The other would answer: thank you. We had a habit of bringing our shoulders up to our ears and that put an unnatural strain on our back muscles. I rode many miles feeling like I had a hot knife in my left shoulder. Kathy had to wear a knee brace on her right knee. At one point she jammed her wrist when riding over a small pothole she didn’t see in time. Then, of course, there was my dizziness.

TRACKING MILEAGE
It had been my intent to accurately track the mileage between towns. That became impossible. From Lockport to Palmyra it was pretty easy because the ride was all on the old canal pathway. After Newark, things became very complicated with mistakes made following the maps. My energy was focused on getting from A to B. Once we got on-road, it was difficult to accurately calculate the mileage because I was never sure where the center of any given town was and we missed one town all together.

B&Bs AND BREAKFAST
I had no idea we would eat so well for breakfast! Fresh fruit, yogurt, cereal, pancakes, eggs, sausage, bacon, tea, coffee and cream or half-and-half (I can’t stand 1% or skim milk. UGH).

WRITING STYLE
I have a long-standing habit of writing in present tense, skipping to past tense and sliding into present tense again. And I can do that all in one sentence if it’s long enough. ☺ In order to write the journal and give it my personal flavor, I just let it roll. I hope it doesn’t bother the reader too much.

SET UP OF EACH DAY’S JOURNAL ENTRY
Speaking of my writing style, I tried to be consistent, but here again, inconsistency if one of the things I’m consistent about. I did my best and hope the reader will overlook any inconsistencies that develop.

I kept the “Expectations” section (in red). The expectations were written long before the trip was taken to help me visualize how each day would progress.

AND, last but not least I have two other on-line journals you might want to check out:

Look What I'm Up To Now! and A Very Personal Journey

Here we go. Come. Ride with me.

Travel Day - September 5, 2008

Leave Enfield for Niagara Falls, NY in two cars
Drop one car off in Latham, NY.
Proceed to Howard Johnson’s
454 Main St., Niagara Falls
Phone #: 800-282-5261

Expectations: If early enough do some sight seeing. Maybe see the Falls lit at night and watch fireworks. HoJo’s front desk suggests walking across to view the Falls would be faster than going by bike. She said we would have to wait in line with the cars. We have ground level rooms so we can bring bikes in.

I left home at 7:25 a.m. Estimate 20 to 25 minutes to Kathy’s. The weather is extremely warm and humid. Hurricane Hanna is bearing down on Florida and the Carolinas.

Arrive Kathy’s at 7:54 a.m. Her bike is ready to be loaded!

8:30 a.m.—I’m pacing the driveway waiting to get under way. We haven’t even done the Erie Canal yet and already we’re having an animated discussion about the East Coast Greenway, which we may or may not ever do! This is going to be a great trip! Kathy says it’s going to be a long one. The question is, for which one of us? ☺☺

Finally, Kathy notes we are leaving “at 9 a.m. on the freaking nose!”

MUSICAL CARS
It will take two cars to do this. We begin in Kathy’s Ridgeline and Lou’s Acura. Lou’s car is dropped at the Acura dealer in Latham, NY. After lunch at Red Robin in Latham, we are back on the road at 12:24 p.m. Lou has the pleasure of riding with us in the Ridgeline. Tomorrow, Lou will drive back to Latham to pick up his car and drop the Ridgeline. We will end our ride here and the Ridgeline is our ride home.

2:41 p.m. stopped for gas. E.T.A. (according to GPS navigation device) Niagara Falls is 5:15 p.m. We arrived at Howard Johnson Motel at 4:58. Didn’t even have time to settle in when Kathy and Lou are ready to go.

Howard Johnson motel two blocks from Niagara falls.
My room. Notice we were allowed to bring our bikes into our rooms.

Niagara Falls; below the falls; the Rainbow Bridge.

The three of us are overwhelmed by the magnificence of Niagara Falls. The size and volume of water is mind-boggling. We walked to the Falls and took lots of pictures. Had a stranger take our pictures as well.

Looking straight down from the observation tower.

We were on the observation deck when Kathy suddenly disappeared and we couldn’t find her. While we were desperately searching for her, she was down below flirting with “Ambassador” Mark. Once she realized the observation platform was hanging out high above nothing, she beat a hasty retreat. The “Ambassadors” ride around in golf carts answering questions and helping direct tourists to where they want to go.

They then dragged me into the Hard Rock Café and forced me to listen to loud hard rock music. Food and coffee was excellent. I had Cobb Salad; Kathy had steak and mushrooms; Lou had a veggie burger. After dinner I had to go into the Hard Rock Store. Bought a tee shirt…just because.

Firsts for me today: Red Robin; Hard Rock Café; eating avocado; Niagara Falls.

We were going to walk over to the Canadian side but it was raining when we came out of the HRC. By the time we got back to our rooms, it was pouring. The forecast is for the rain to stop by morning. We sure hope so. There are tourist things we didn’t do because of time and weather constraints. Niagara Falls is a starting point, not the focal point, of this trip.

The information desk at Ho Jo’s showed me the best route out of town tomorrow morning…safest and most direct. Also cautioned us against going through one particular neighborhood…not safe. I’m glad I asked. The route I was considering would have taken us right through the “not safe” area. This is just one hazard of riding in unfamiliar territory.

We said good night and went to our rooms. I hope I can sleep. It’s always a problem when I’m in a strange bed. Set the alarm for 6 a.m. and will join Kathy and Lou at 7 a.m. for breakfast.

Day One - Saturday, September 6

Expectations: After breakfast more sightseeing, picture taking. Get someone to take our picture. After lunch (if not sooner) head toward Lockport. Our ride will be all on-road today.

I shut the alarm clock off at 6 a.m. I didn’t sleep well in a strange bed. A peek out the window showed it was raining. By 7:25 it looked like the rain had stopped…at most maybe misting. Doesn’t look like a very good riding day, but we have no choice. We do have ponchos if we need them. I watched Lou leave. There goes our transportation…except for our bikes.

I grabbed a banana in the breakfast room. Already had a lemon Danish. Kathy had cereal with a banana. The breakfast room opened at 6:30 and had a variety of hot and cold cereals, coffee, tea, juices, Danish pastry, muffins, etc. There were tables where guests could sit and eat. We chose to eat in our rooms.

Local TV news had a story of a shooting overnight smack in the middle of the neighborhood we would have ridden through had the tourist information lady not redirected us.

Left Howard Johnson’s at 8:02. After Kathy put air in her front tire we headed for Horseshoe Falls and Luna Island. We chose not to go into Canada even though we probably would have had a better view. I think we are feeling a little anxious and want to get this show on the road. The weather is very dreary, cloudy, misty, and cool.

At Niagara Falls State Park I took many pictures at the statue of Chief Clinton Rickard (RO-WA-DA-GAH-RA-DEH – Loud Voice, Tuscarora, Beaver Clan) who founded the Indian Defense League of America. Also photographed plaques dedicated to Charter Members of the League, Sophie Martin (GO-WA-TAH-RA-NEH – Speaking to the People, Mohawk, Wolf Clan); David Hill (DE-HO-WEH-YA-HE-REH – Spreading Wings, Mohawk – Wolf Clan).

At Luna Island we walked down a lot of steps in the area of Bridal Veil Falls. We were able to get so close to the Niagara River as it flowed over the Niagara Escarpment that we could see the shallow bottom very clearly. Just before the water flows over the edge it gives no indication of how rapid the current is. Just thinking about stepping into the water is scary! Yet we saw signs that cautioned, “No climbing over railing.” Duh!

Here we are as we start our magnificent, epic ride from Niagara Falls to Albany.

Chief Rickard.

Luna Park at the top and Terrapin Point at the bottom.

Kathy and me right on the edge. The water is right on the other side of that fence.

The sharp drop from Luna Park.

I still can't believe you need a sign!

The flow over the falls and the river below the falls.

Niagara River rapids just north (or is it west) of the Falls.

Left Horseshoe Falls at 9:05 on our way to Lockport. Our route out of Niagara Falls is Main St. (Rte 104) to Pine Ave., to Hyde Park Blvd, which becomes a steep hill over railroad tracks. Half way up the hill Kathy sees a plastic fork in the road. She calls back to me, “There’s a fork in the road. Which way do we go?”

We are riding into the wind, but making 9 to 11 mph. We will be riding on-road all day because the canal pathway doesn’t begin until Lockport.

10 a.m. – turned onto Rte 31 and heading east, straight into Lockport from here. We stopped at the Tuscarora Indian Nation Reservation (Smokin Joes) in Sanborn for a mid-morning snack and started asking people, “How far to Lockport?” It’s a left-over joke from our very short trip on the canal in 2004. As expected we got answers that ranged from “have no idea” to “11 to 16 miles”. We had figured at least 16.

Smokin Joes® Trading Post is a one stop shopping center—a large grocery store, Cafe, Men's and Women's clothing boutiques, Fine jewelry department, the Native American Museum of Art, and you can even get your car washed! Come get your Smokin' Deals…the price of cigarettes is outrageously low (no, I don’t smoke).

As we enter Lockport it’s on a designated BIKE LANE. Makes me happy!

26.52 miles as we get to our B&B, Hamilton House. Even though we were very early, Suzanne was gracious and allowed us to dump our gear in our room. We decided it was too far to walk to the Canal Cruise so we rode our bikes. After lunch at Friendlys, we headed for the tourist attraction.

We did this:
Lockport Locks & Erie Canal Cruises
210 Market Street, Lockport, NY 14094
Phone: (716) 433-6155, Toll Free: (800) 378-0352
Hours: Public cruises at 10am, 12:30pm, and 3pm daily
Lockport Locks & Erie Canal Cruises provides relaxing two-hour cruises on the historic Erie Canal, which includes “locking through” the only double set of locks on the Erie Canal. .....visit our Gift Shop and Erie Canal Heritage Museum. Enjoy a relaxing trip on the canal and “live life in the past lane.” * Experience a unique 2-hour cruise which includes "locking through" and being raised the 49 ft. elevation of the Niagara Escarpment (the same one that creates Niagara Falls) in the only double set of locks on the Erie Canal. You will pass under bridges that raise straight up, see water cascade over Lockport's famous "Flight of Five" 1840's locks, and travel through the solid walls of the "rock cut" as your Coast Guard licensed captain describes the architecture, sights, and folklore along the way. $13 for AAA members.

We did not do this:
Lockport Cave & Underground Boat Ride

Welcome to Lockport. Just look at that wide shoulder for riding. As we came into the center of town there was an honest to goodness bike lane! YES.

As we locked through we saw original dry docks, “upside down” bridges, what’s left of the original locks and the beautiful new locks. We also saw the remains of the building owned by Birdsill Holly who invented the fire hydrant. This building burned down. The ride itself is best told in the pictures. The grounds surrounding the Canal Cruise area had pretty gardens that invited one to sit and rest a spell. The building, which housed a restaurant and gift shop, was all set up to host a wedding reception. We had hoped to crash the party on our return, but were told not go through the building. Darn! We were hoping for open bar!

Speaking of the gift shop, I bought a book that I highly recommend, “The Erie Canal: The Ditch that Opened a Nation” by Dan Murphy. Address all inquiries to Brian Meyer, Publisher, Western New York Wares Inc., P. O. Box 733, Ellicott Station, Buffalo, NY 14205. Email: buffalobooks@att.net. I’m not sure if this book is available from any other source. It’s listed on Amazon, but not available. Filled with lots of factoids that bring the Canal alive.

Lock empty at the top. Lock full on the bottom.

I was taken by this door. In the middle of a stark, white wall. I found it quite beautiful.

Dry dock on the old canal.

New locks on the left and the original locks on the right. The original locks are only one- half the width they were when in use.

After the ride, which was about 2 hours long, we stopped at Montadelo’s Restaurant (not far from the B&B). Servings way to much for someone who can’t take a doggie bag home. Terrible waste of delicious food.

Following are photos of our ride on a canal boat. It was exciting locking through and learning about the building of the canal.

Top: coming into the lock.
Bottom: Locking through.

This is still part of the Niagara escarpment.

Houses built right on the canal by merchants of the day.

Lock info sign.

Solid limestone.

This is what's left of the workshop of Birdsell Holly who is credited with the invention of the fire hydrant. His workshop burned down.

Making good use of the stones that were dug up as the canal was built.

Interesting architecture. Just look at the top of this building!

Our room at Hambleton House and the outside of the B&B.

Back to The Hambleton House to shower and get ready for bed. At our B&B we were treated to a comfortable room and soft, snowy white bathrobes. The private bath had old-fashioned, small white tiles on the floor and a free-standing tub. I came close to taking a header getting out of the tub. I’m not as limber as I used to be and almost didn’t get that first leg up and over. ☺

Estimated mileage: 21 miles
Actual miles: 27.5
Time pedaling: 2 hrs 57 min 45 sec
Average speed: 9.28 mph
Highest speed: 19.13 mph

HAMBLETON HOUSE
130 Pine St., Lockport, NY 14094
Our hostess: Suzanne
716-439-9507

Day Two – Sunday, September 7

Expectation:After breakfast we depart the Hambleton House in Lockport and head for Brockport.
Pass through towns of Orangeport, Gasport, Reynales Basin, Middleport, Shelby Basin, Medina (see “apple”) where we will have lunch. Two miles outside of Medina is the place where a road goes under the canal. Stop and take pictures. Knowlesville, Eagle Harbor, Abion, Brockville, Hulberton, Holley and finally, Brockport.

Our ride today will be on the canal pathway all the way to Brockport.

We (or at least I am) are up before 7 a.m. and had breakfast at 8. Thank goodness I have all my stuff in plastic bags. Makes repacking my panniers so much easier.

There was another couple staying here. They had biked all the way from Rochester the day before. The young woman had “taco-ed” her back rim. That’s a term I had never heard before but if you know what a taco is then you can imagine her rim. They said it wasn’t that bad and were planning to ride back to Rochester today. Good luck. Breakfast was hot and cold cereals, fresh fruits, breads, coffee, tea, orange juice.

At mile 0.90 we are at the beginning of the canal pathway. Kathy was right about where to access the towpath. She usually is right. By mile 3.05 we are shedding the outer layer of clothing. It’s sunny, cool, gorgous.

Photos from top to bottom: bridge to Gasport; how Gasport got its name; you can get there from here!; looking across the bridge into Middleport where the antique car show was going on; and the bridge into Middleport.

We hit Gasport at mile 7.04.

Four miles or so down the road we chanced upon a classic car show in the town of Middleport—Mustangs, Corvettes, very old Fords, and on and on. As we walked along Main Street admiring the cars, we were asked if we would mind putting our bikes in the firehouse. It was feared one of the bikes could fall over (we were putting down the kick stands and walking away) and damage one of the cars. Good thought, and while we were in the firehouse it was a good chance to use the facilities.

Suddenly, there was the roar as a huge dump truck came barreling over the bridge straight at the flimsy barricade guarding the classic cars. I won’t repeat some of the things that were shouted as the truck, going full throttle, laid on the horn and hung a sharp left and roared out of town. Must have been a local boy showing off. When the paralysis wore off ☺ someone stepped forward and moved the barricades farther away from the bridge, giving the next truck more room.

There is a Family Hair Care business in town called The Clip Joint. (I thought that was clever.)

Photos top to bottom: in Medina...location, location, location; Medina bridge: the Apple of Medina; Knowlesville bridge; two beauties in yellow ponchos; sign indicating the northernmost point on the Erie Canal.

On to Medina, another 4 to 5 miles down the road where we had lunch at the Country Club Restaurant. We left at 12:54 in the rain. We did stop to take pictures of the Medina “apple”. This is apple country. We did not stop for pictures of the road under the canal. It was raining harder. When we hit Knowlesville we stopped under a bridge to put on our ponchos and implore Mother Nature to let up on the rain. Even hired an Angel to intercede for us. You can guess how far we got with that!